How to Spend 5 Days in Oaxaca

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Oaxaca is one of my favorite cities in the world. From the moment I first visited, I knew this was a place I would return to again and again and again. (And I have.)

Located in southwestern Mexico in a valley surrounded by craggy mountains, Oaxaca has been inhabited for thousands of years by indigenous Zapotec and Mixtec peoples. Today, it’s a center for food, mezcal production, artisan textiles and pottery, and history, owing to places like Monte Albán and Mitla.

Take all that history, food, and drink, and package it in a city brimming with colorful buildings, scenic rooftop restaurants and bars, unique street art, and picturesque parks, and it’s no surprise so many people — myself included — love Oaxaca.

Since I’ve visited this city a lot (I even run tours here), to help you plan your trip, I put together this five-day Oaxaca itinerary. It covers all the highlights (as well as some off-the-beaten-path activities)!

Oaxaca Itinerary: Day 1

Take a free walking tour
One of the first things I do when I visit a new place is take a free walking tour. They’re the best way to see the main sights, get introduced to the culture, and meet a local who can answer all your questions and give you tips on visiting.

My favorite company in Oaxaca is Oaxaca Free Walking Tour. They offer free daily tours that show you the hidden gems and what life is like for the locals. I can’t recommend it enough if it’s your first time in the city. Just make sure to tip your guide at the end!

See the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán
While in downtown Oaxaca, don’t miss stopping in this complex that features a 17th-century Baroque Roman Catholic church, a cultural museum, and a botanical garden. Originally used as a Dominican church and monastery, this photogenic church was annexed and used as a barracks and military building during Mexico’s revolution (1910–1920). It remained in use by the military until the 1990s.

While here, see the Museo de las Culturas, which is home to all kinds of religious and pre-Columbian artifacts. It’s a must for history buffs. The “Treasures of Monte Albán” exhibition showcases over 400 relics from a Mixtec tomb that is one of the most important burial sites in Mesoamerica, including a skull covered in turquoise, carved bone objects, weaving tools, and jewelry made of gold and jade. It is by far one of the best things to do in the city and something I always take my friends to see when they visit. Expect to spend a couple of hours.

C. Macedonio Alcalá S/N. The Museo de las Culturas is open Tuesday-Friday 10am-3pm. Admission to the church is free, while the museum is 85 MXN.

Wander the city and admire the street art
Oaxaca has a wealth of street art, ranging from political pieces commenting on social issues to murals focused on indigenous culture and history. Head outside of the historic downtown to see them, or join a street art biking tour offered by Coyote Aventuras (850 MXN) for an even more in-depth look. It’s a fun, interesting way to learn more about the culture of modern-day Oaxaca. Again, remember to tip your guide at the end.

Try a street-stall hamburguesa
After a busy day of exploring, feast on a hamburguesa for dinner. It’s a burger topped with a hot dog, sliced cheese, Oaxaca cheese, ham, pineapple, lettuce, tomato, and jalapeño. While it might sound like a little much, I promise you that they are delicious. It’s all the unhealthy foods you could ever want for just 50 MXN. Personally, I think Cangreburguer serves the best ones.

Oaxaca Itinerary: Day 2

Explore Mercado 20 de Noviembre
This 19th-century covered market is home to all kinds of delicious street food and fresh, local produce. It’s also my favorite market in the city and I always stop here when I visit. Named after the start date of the Mexican Revolution in 1910, it has remained one of Oaxaca’s culinary and cultural hubs for over a hundred years. Be sure to try some of the amazing grilled meats, as they are a local favorite.

Another market I really enjoy is the nearby Mercado Benito Juárez. It has a bunch of food stalls and shops worth browsing if you have more time.

20 de Noviembre 512. Open daily 7am-9pm. Admission is free.

Stroll through the Botanical Garden
Located in the former convent in the aforementioned Santo Domingo de Guzmán complex, the Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca was founded in 1994 and opened to the public in 1999. Spanning 6 acres, it features various plants from across the state (many of which have been transplanted here since the garden is so young). In addition to the flowers, trees, and cacti that dot the garden, there are also sculptures and works of art. Note that admission is by guided tour only, and there is only one English tour per day (offered at 11am), which has only 25 spots and fills up quickly. If you want to get in for that day’s tour, be sure to arrive early!

Reforma Sur, Ruta Independencia. Open Monday-Saturday 10am-3:30pm. Admission is by guided tour only. Admission (including the tour) is 50 MXN for Spanish tours and 100 MXN for English ones.

Learn about mezcal
I love mezcal (which is one of the reasons why I love Oaxaca). Oaxaca is the birthplace of mezcal, a spirit distilled from agave. Unlike tequila, which is also made from agave, when making mezcal the heart of the plant is cooked in a pit in the ground before it is crushed. Then water is added, and it’s allowed to ferment. Since the plant is cooked, mezcal has a much smokier flavor than tequila.

If you want to learn more about this popular spirit, Rambling Spirits runs the best mezcal tours in Oaxaca so go with them if you want to learn more. They have incredible knowledge and can take you to places the bigger tours can’t. I learned a ton on their tour and highly recommend them! Most tours leave after lunch so you have time to visit the markets in the morning and the the botanical gardens.

Additionally, pop into one of the many mezcalerías to taste and learn more about the region’s favorite spirit. For bars, my personal favorites are Los Amantes Mezcalería, Mezcalogia, Tres Hermanas, Mezcalería In Situ, and Comere.

Oaxaca Itinerary: Day 3

See Monte Albán
This site is a must for history buffs. It’s a pre-Columbian UNESCO World Heritage Site located just 15 minutes outside town (with regular shuttles to and from downtown). Founded in the 6th century BCE, Monte Albán was one of the earliest Mesoamerican cities and an important sociopolitical and economic center for almost a thousand years.

Start your visit by stopping in at the museum, as it’ll give you context, especially if you’re not on a guided tour. Then, wander the sprawling site at your leisure, climbing ancient Zapotec pyramids and admiring the tombs, terraces, and canals that span several miles. The site takes about 2-3 hours to visit depending on the pace you go. Bring a hat and sunscreen as there isn’t much shade.

Ignacio Bernal S/N, San Pedro Ixtlahuaca. Open daily 10am-4pm. Admission is 90 MXN.

Take a food tour
Upon returning to the city, explore the local food scene with a guided food tour. I highly recommend doing one here, since Oaxaca is such a center for gastronomy, with some of the most diverse selections of dishes in Mexico. My favorite company is Oaxaca Eats. They run several tours, most of which last around four hours. You’ll get to sample over 20 dishes and learn a ton about the food and its history. It’s an amazing experience!

Tour prices vary, but expect to spend 2,000 MXN.

Oaxaca Itinerary: Day 4

Swim at Hierve el Agua
Hierve el Agua is one of Mexico’s most beautiful natural sites and a sacred place for the indigenous Zapotec people. These petrified waterfalls seem frozen in time — and they practically are, as they’ve been in the making for thousands of years. As water from natural springs flows over the side of the cliffs, the minerals from the water create rock formations, much in the same way that stalactites form in caves. Bring your swimsuit, as you can swim in the natural and manmade pools at the top!

In addition to admiring the calcified cliffs, there are also hikes in the area, which is a good way to get away from the crowds.

Open daily 7am-6:30pm. Admission is 50 MXN.

Explore Mitla
Another historic site that I think is a must-see, this pre-Columbian UNESCO World Heritage Site was one of the main religious and spiritual hubs for the indigenous Zapotec and Mixtec people. Used as a sacred burial ground and believed to be a gateway between the realms of the living and the dead, Mitla was built in 850 CE but was mostly destroyed by the Spanish in the mid-16th century. However, some buildings were left intact (some of which date as far back as 400 CE), which you can explore on your visit to the archaeological site, which stands out from other Mesoamerican ruins due to the mosaics covering the tombs and walls.

Open Tuesday-Saturday 10am-4pm, Sunday 10am-2pm. Admission is 90 MXN while skip-the-line tickets are 160 MXN.

Oaxaca Itinerary: Day 5

On your last day, you can pick and choose from a handful of activities depending on your budget and travel style:

Visit Oaxaca’s artisan towns
Scattered throughout the province of Oaxaca are small folk-art villages, where you can meet local artisans, see how traditional goods are made, and bring back a souvenir of your travels if you choose. Each village specializes in a different craft; Teotitlán del Valle is known for its textiles, San Bartolo Coyotepec for black pottery, and San Martín Tilcajete and San Antonio Arrazola for alebrijes (brightly colored fantastical animal sculptures), to name just a few.

Experience a temazcal
On your last evening in Oaxaca, wind down at a temazcal (meaning “house of heat”), a traditional Zapotec sweat lodge. You’ll sit in a small domed hut that becomes increasingly warmer. You’ll rub everything from clay to fresh fruit juices and peels on your skin as you heat up, cooling down by dunking yourself in cold water. It’s a very meditative, spiritual experience with numerous health benefits.

Visits usually last an hour and cost around 600 MXN.

Wander the Sunday market
If you’re in town on a Sunday, be sure to visit Mercado Tlacolula, one of the most popular markets in the region. It’s been in operation for centuries and is a good place to buy local crafts, produce, food, and everything in between. It’s located 45 minutes outside the city, so you’ll need to drive there or take the bus, but it’s absolutely worth the journey. Thousands of people come here, and there’s tons of amazing food to try.

Don’t skip the barbacoa (stewed meat) and chicharrón (fried pork rinds).

See the world’s widest tree
Located in the humble town of Santa María del Tule is the world’s widest tree. Estimated to be 1,500-3,000 years old, this Montezuma cypress (Mexico’s national tree) has a diameter of about 14 meters (46 feet)! A magnificent sight to behold, it’s just 10 kilometers (6 miles) from the center of Oaxaca.

Attend a festival
Oaxaca is famous for its traditional festivals, the most well-known and largest being on the Day of the Dead. But you don’t have to be visiting during this busy holiday time to experience the wonder that is an Oaxacan celebration. One of the most uniquely Oaxacan festivals is the Night of the Radishes, which takes place on December 23 every year. It’s the world’s largest radish-carving event and dates back to the 19th century.

From the colors, sights, and sounds to the history and culture to the food and drink, there’s just so much to love and enjoy in Oaxaca. It’s a favorite for everyone who visits and a lot of people ending up coming back again and again (I visit every year because I love it so much!).

Use this itinerary to see the highlights and ensure you make the most of your time. It won’t disappoint! And for the tour companies and bars I mentioned above, be sure to tell them I sent you!